Samotracia
In 1863 a French vice-consul stationed in Adrianople, Charles Champoiseau, digging among the ruins of a forgotten sanctuary on the...
Updated 10 July 2026
Samotracia
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The story
The story of Samotracia
Origins and the first inhabitants
Before the Greeks called it Samothrace - literally "Samos of Thrace," to distinguish it from the island of the same name in the eastern Aegean - the island was inhabited by Thracian peoples, remembered in ancient sources as the Saii. Around the 7th century BC, Aeolian settlers from Lesbos established themselves there, merging with the local population and giving rise to a community that, due to its peripheral position relative to the great centers of classical Greece, developed an autonomous religious identity. The steep coasts, lacking easy natural harbors, long kept the island on the margins of the main trade routes - an isolation that, paradoxically, favored its role as a neutral Panhellenic sanctuary, frequented by pilgrims from every rival city.
The Sanctuary of the Great Gods and the Mysteries
On the northern slopes of the island, in a natural amphitheater crossed by a stream, stood the Sanctuary of the Great Gods, home to the famous Mysteries of the Kabeiroi: a mystery cult dedicated to deities of fertility and the protection of sailors, whose origins reach back into pre-Greek traditions. Unlike Eleusis, initiation here - structured in two degrees, the myesis and the epopteia - was open to anyone, regardless of sex, social status or citizenship: slaves, women and foreigners could all be initiated. The secrecy surrounding the rites was kept with such rigor that even today scholars know only their architectural setting and a few clues about how they actually unfolded. According to tradition, it was here that Philip II of Macedon and Olympias, the future parents of Alexander the Great, are said to have met.
The Winged Victory of Samothrace
At the most spectacular point of the sanctuary, on a rocky terrace overlooking a small pool of water, stood the statue of Nike, the Winged Victory, carved presumably around 200 BC to celebrate a naval triumph. The sculpture, a work of extraordinary Hellenistic mastery, depicts the goddess at the instant she alights on the prow of a ship, her robes carved as if soaked and blown by the sea wind. Found in pieces by Champoiseau in 1863, it was sent to France and today dominates the Daru staircase of the Louvre; on the island the original prow-shaped base remains, and since 2015 a scale replica has once again placed the Victory in its natural setting.
The Archaeological Museum of the Sanctuary
A short distance from the excavations stands the Archaeological Museum of Samothrace, an essential stop for making sense of the scattered stones of the sanctuary. Its rooms house finds recovered during excavation campaigns conducted since the 19th century, including architectural fragments of the frieze with dancers, votive offerings, ceramics and a plaster reconstruction of the Nike that helps visitors imagine its original appearance before it was moved to Paris. Panels and scale models explain the function of the sanctuary's various buildings, from the Hieron, where the second degree of initiation was celebrated, to the Arsinoeion, the largest covered circular building ever built by the Greeks.
Mount Saos (Fengari), the roof of the Aegean
At 1,611 meters, Mount Saos - also known as Fengari, "the moon" - is the highest peak in the entire Aegean Sea, visible on clear days even from the coast of Anatolia. To the ancients it was the throne from which, according to the Iliad, Poseidon watched the battles beneath the walls of Troy. Today the granite massif is the favorite destination of hikers: from the villages of Therma or Profitis Ilias, trails set off that, in about six or seven hours of walking, lead to the summit, through woods of chestnut and beech trees and sudden outcrops of bare rock, up to a panorama stretching from Thrace to Lemnos and Imbros.
The vathres of Fonias, pools among the rocks
The Fonias stream flows down from Saos, carving a narrow gorge shaded by centuries-old plane trees, before opening into a series of natural pools of icy, transparent water, the famous vathres, linked by small waterfalls. It is one of the island's most beloved spots, reachable with a walk of just a few kilometers from the north coast, and offers refreshing breaks even in the height of the hottest summer. At the mouth of the stream stands a watchtower from the Genoese era, which, according to local legend, gave the river its name "Fonias," the murderer, in memory of a crime committed nearby in ancient times.
Therma, the village of hot springs
On the northern slope, in the shadow of Saos, the village of Therma - also called Loutra - owes its name to the sulfurous springs that have gushed warm from the ground since antiquity. The public pools, simple and informal, are still frequented today by those seeking relief for skin and joints, in a setting free of intrusive tourist facilities. Since the 1960s and 1970s, Therma has also become a small haven for alternative travelers and hippie communities, who found here an island free of large resorts: a cultural legacy still felt in the informal campsites among the trees and the relaxed atmosphere of the village.
Chora, the capital hidden among the mountains
Unlike many Greek islands, the capital of Samothrace does not stand on the sea but is perched inland, halfway up the slope: a defensive choice against the pirate raids that threatened the Aegean for centuries. Stone houses with slate roofs cluster around the remains of the castle built by the Gattilusi, the powerful Genoese family who governed the island in the 15th century under nominal Byzantine sovereignty, before the Ottoman conquest. Wandering through the alleys of Chora, with its craft workshops and terraces overlooking the channel, remains one of the best ways to capture the island's authentic rhythm.
Kamariotissa, the gateway from the sea
All the island's traffic passes through Kamariotissa, the main port and liveliest commercial center, which grew up around the ferry pier in relatively recent times. Here you'll find the tavernas along the seafront, the car and scooter rentals essential for exploring an island without extensive public transport, and the small shops where you can stock up before heading inland. Less picturesque than Chora, Kamariotissa nonetheless remains an excellent base, especially for those arriving or departing on the evening ferry.
Goats, herding and flavors of the interior
Samothrace is famous, with a touch of local irony, for having more goats than inhabitants: semi-wild herds roam the mountain roads, come down almost to the sea and climb impossible rocks in search of food. From this pastoral tradition come the island's cheeses, especially feta and fresh mixed-milk cheeses, as well as an intense mountain honey, the product of Mediterranean scrubland and chestnut groves. Local cuisine is simple and rustic in character: legumes, wild greens, grilled or stewed goat meat, accompanied by a robust wine produced in small quantities by local families.
- Swimming in the natural pools of Fonias, among waterfalls and centuries-old plane trees
- Climbing up to the Sanctuary of the Great Gods to see the original base of the Nike
- Treating yourself to a warm bath at the informal hot springs of Therma
- Wandering the stone alleys of Chora and the remains of the Genoese castle
- Attempting the climb up Mount Saos for sunset over the Aegean
- Tasting goat cheeses and mountain honey at a local taverna
- Exploring the coast by boat to reach coves accessible only from the sea
When to go and how to experience the island
Samothrace should be experienced calmly, without the expectation of the postcard beaches that characterize other Greek islands: its charm lies in the mountainous interior, the streams and the suspended atmosphere of the sanctuary. The best months are May-June and September, when temperatures are pleasant for trekking and the ferries are less crowded; August brings full heat and sold-out crossings to Alexandroupoli, so it's worth booking well in advance. The absence of structured nightlife and large hotel facilities is, for many travelers, precisely the reason to return.
FAQ
Come si arriva a Samotracia?
Quando è il periodo migliore per visitarla?
Cosa vedere se si ha solo un giorno a disposizione?
Quanti giorni servono per visitare l'isola con calma?
L'isola è adatta a chi viaggia con bambini o animali?
Getting there
- Aeroporto di Alessandropoli 'Dimokritos' (a circa 2 ore di traghetto dal porto di Kamariotissa)
- Nessun collegamento stradale diretto: l'isola non è raggiungibile in auto se non imbarcandola sul traghetto da Alessandropoli.
- In alta stagione (luglio-agosto) prenotare traghetto e, se serve, l'auto al seguito con largo anticipo: le corse sono limitate e vanno rapidamente esaurite.
Perfect for
Sentieri di montagna, gole e piscine naturali rendono Samotracia una meta ideale per chi ama camminare e immergersi nella natura selvaggia.
Il Santuario dei Grandi Dei e la storia della Nike offrono un'immersione unica nei culti misterici del mondo antico.
Le sorgenti calde di Therma regalano momenti di puro relax in un contesto naturale, senza spa costruite ad arte.
Formaggi di capra, miele di montagna e un ritmo di vita lontano dal turismo di massa.
Coste rocciose, calette isolate e un'acqua limpida da esplorare più in barca che in spiaggia.
To see
What to see in Samotracia
Routes · Trovido Route
